Below are my two favorite outfits from the Fall 2006 Ralph Lauren show. Mind you, they are FAR from perfect, especially in terms of the artifice/affectedness of fit and proportion (seems like there is a knee-jerk reactionary mood against the equally loathsome over-slouchiness of past years. (Click on the pictures for an expanded view)
But there are some elements I rather like. (For more on this, go to my other blog) I find the riding jacket version at right to be...interesting and innovative in a benign way, save for the choice of a notch lapel, which I simply cannot abide. The Spinal Tap-snug cut of the trousers with stovepipe legs will become a sad aberration and forgotten footnote in a year or two. Avoid.
I heartily approve, though, of pocket watches with chains (but then again, I would) and the white waistcoat with black tie at right strikes me as complete genius, as does the gradual reemergence of a proper wing collar after many years in hiding following many years of the sartorial abuse thereof. Notice the self-tied bow ties. At these shows these are often tied sloppily on purpose, to highlight the self-tiedness aspect. In real life, you'd tie them as neatly as possible, secure in the knowledge it'll always have an ingratiating amount of imperfection/individualism. To willfully tie them sloppily is to be trying too hard. Oh, and the tie at left is a bit too big and, unless I am mistaken, too velvety.